Dslr Lens Hood Canon

dslr lens hood canon

Seriously Wide..

Hi Friends and Fellow Entrepreneurs,

Ahh…wide angle photography, probably one of the easiest types of photo to take; but also one of the hardest to excel at.

Have you ever tried to cram 30 people into a single photograph? You’d try to stack them, have some of them on the floor or even ask some of them at the back to jump at the press of the shutter!? You’re also trying to make sure that you are able to see the faces of these people in the photograph. Difficult if your camera’s lens is not wide enough and you have to move yourself further back to accommodate, which may not be possible if space is limited. When shooting indoors with flash, moving back may even give you an underexposed photograph, as flash is often not powerful enough to reach longer distances.

Apart from the utilitarian purpose of getting good group photographs, shooting wide angle lets you portray the scene in full detail with unusual and sometimes, exaggerated perspectives. This is especially true of super wide angle. Small objects can be made to appear larger than larger objects within the same scene, effectively shifting the balance of the image composition. When used well, it can bring attention to the subject of interest in the foreground, at the same time preserving the context of the whole image by showing the location or event in the background.

Choose your foreground interest wisely

-Wider Options

Lenses are categorized by their focal lengths. Typically, lenses fall into one of these categories:

· super wide angle (10~24mm)

· wide angle (24~35mm)

· standard (about 50mm)

· telephoto (70~300mm)

· super telephoto (300mm and beyond)

These numbers indicate the focal length, which describes the field of view achievable using that lens. Incidentally, the field of view of a 50mm lens is considered to be an approximation to what the human eye sees. For the DSLR owners, they can choose from a variety of lenses ranging from a super wide lens all the way up to a super telephoto. But what about the rest of us?

Digital compact camera owners are not left out of the picture. There are a multitude of wide-angle adapters for digital compacts; both made available as accessories as well as by third-party manufacturers. These can be attached via lens threads or bayonet mounts on their bodies. There are also some from third-party lenses which can be attached magnetically!

-Focal Length Multiplier

Note: The ‘focal length’ of the lens determines the ‘field of view’, which is the angle of view seen using this lens. ‘Field-of-view crop’ is often referred to as ‘focal length multiplier’ for the sake of simplicity.

Digital photography, from the hardware perspective, is based on principles of 35mm film cameras. For a photographer who shoots with film, there is no such thing as a ‘focal length multiplier’, because to them, everything is 1x. This means that a 50mm lens is a 50mm lens. Not so for a digital SLR. A 50mm lens virtually becomes a 75mm lens, when attached to a Nikon D200 digital SLR. This is because the ‘focal length multiplier’ of 1.5x causes the 50mm lens to have a field of view equivalent to a 75mm lens.

Shooting wide angle is basically one way of depicting a scene using a wider field of view, which in turn is achieved by using a lens with a focal length of less than 50mm on a 35mm film SLR camera. These days, with the proliferation of digital SLR cameras, there might be some confusion to how focal lengths are calculated.

To keep things simple, we can use this rule of thumb. If you are using a 35mm film SLR, your focal length multiplier is 1x. If you are using a digital SLR, your focal length multiplier could be any one of these, depending on the model of DSLR camera: 1x (eg Canon 1Ds Mk II), 1.3x (eg Canon 1D Mk II), 1.5x (eg Nikon D200 or D70) or 1.6x (eg Canon 30D).

To get the actual focal length (and hence field of view achievable) of your lens, multiply the lens focal length with the multiplier.

Example 1

Nikon D200 (multiplier is 1.5x) with a 17~70mm lens

The actual focal length range of this combination is 25.5mm-105mm, achieved by multiplying the lens range with 1.5

Example 2

Canon 1Ds Mk II (multiplier is 1x) with a 70~300mm lens

The actual focal length range of this combination is still 70-300mm.

Example 3

Nikon F5 (35mm film camera with multiplier of 1x) with a 15mm fisheye lens

The actual focal length of this combination is still 15mm.

The reason behind the focal length multiplier falls to the size of the recording media, the CCD or CMOS. Different cameras use different sized CCD/CMOS for different reasons eg. to make a smaller camera and for better power efficiency. For compact digital cameras which do not fall under the digital SLR category, focal length multipliers are rarely used because they don’t have interchangeable lenses. What they do have are wide angle adapters or telephoto adapters. A wide angle adapter may be referred to as a 0.7x wide adapter. What this number means is that this adapter shortens the focal length of the built-in lens by multiplying it with 0.7, effectively creating a wider field of view.

Super wide angle shots sometimes appear distorted, but they do show a lot more in the background, lending context to an image

-Focusing with Wide Angle Lenses

An inherent characteristic of camera lenses is that wide angle lenses come with more depth-of-field compared to telephoto lenses. This reduces focusing errors to some extent, which means that you can focus on almost anything around the center of the frame and get an acceptably sharp image. In this case, a small aperture further increases the chance of a sharp image. For best results though, we can use the “1/3 of the distance rule”. Look inside your camera viewfinder, estimate the distance from the nearest point that is visible in the viewfinder, to the furthest point that is also visible in your viewfinder. Focus on a point that is roughly one-third of the distance away from you. If you cannot use autofocus effectively on that point (perhaps due to very dim light levels or low contrast early in the morning on a mountain), you can estimate the distance and manually focus your lens, using the distance scale on your lens. A small aperture (eg. f16) gives you more depth-of-field, so use it if possible. That’s why it’s good to carry a tripod, which will let you use smaller apertures without camera shake.

-Composing with Wide Angle Lenses

Wide angle photography has its own set of challenges. While it lets you show more of the scene, sometimes less is more. If not properly framed, a super wide angle image may include distracting elements which detract from your image, because a wide angle lens sees a wider field of view than a normal lens. Therefore it’s good to fill the frame well, composing it in such a way that only the necessary elements are included. Landscape photography is a classic candidate for using wide angle lenses. In order to shoot great landscape photography, foreground interest is important. Wide angle lenses let you include a sizeable portion of the foreground in the frame, so use it well by choosing a foreground that is actually interesting.

When shooting super wide angle, we can also get away with a slower shutter speed because the shorter focal length downplays slight camera shake errors, opening up new possibilites with photography. One example is hand-holding your SLR camera in a busy street downtown, capturing a sharp image of your subject while rendering the pedestrian traffic as a blur, due to the slower shutter speed.

-Wide Angle Care

Exercise more caution when handling your DSLR or digicam with a wide-angle lens/adapter. Some wide angle lenses have protruding glass which is more exposed and susceptible to accidental contact with dirty fingers or worse, it may end up getting scratched. If your lens accepts a UV filter, get one. It will protect your lens from countless dangers. Many wide angle lenses allow you to focus closer than a telephoto lens, so a lens hood helps to some extent to protect your lens from your overzealous attempts to get a closer shot.

Wide angle photography is exciting, go forth and experiment!

Enjoy !

Warmly,

Bernard Tan Min Chun

Photographic Artist

http://www.dreamentry4u.com/photo.html

About the Author

Bernard Tan lived in Penang , Malaysia . Graduated (2 nd July, 2004) at Wanganui School of Design in the New Zealand where he received a Bachelor of Computer Graphic Design [ the requirement of the Universal College of Learning and the University of Waikato ] – born photographic artist start the Dreamentry4u.com to produce printbase design, mixed media artwork., interactive and installations presenting his photography –base work. Highly contrasted and rich colour, coming from manipulations of the camera and not from computer editing. My traditional photographic techniques on new digital system has created new movements and unique photos. VISIT http://www.dreamentry4u.com/photo.html

DREAMENTRY4u™ Will Help You Multiply Your Business Profits Within Days, marketing strategies & turn a necessity into a profit machine! http://www.dreamentry4u.com/shop.html

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You can easily buy them from eBay (Safest purchase, and in most case free shipping) just click on the image and enjoy

Canon DSLR Lens Hood EF 50mm f/1.8 II and 28-200mm f/3.5-5.6 USM $10.00

77mm Snap on Lens Cap Hood for Canon EOS SLR DSLR # $3.99

m 58mm 3-stage Rubber LENS HOOD for Canon EOS EF DSLR $6.25

58mm UV Lens Filter+Flower Hood For Nikon Pentax Canon Olympus Panasonic DSLR $5.62

52mm UV CPL Filter+Flower Lens Hood for Canon Nikon Pentax Sony Panasonic DSLR $10.78

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58mm Lens Hood Shade thumb drive,cap for Canon SLR/DSLR $11.99

49mm Collapsible 3in1 Rubber Lens Hood for Canon Nikon Pentax DSLR Camera $4.98

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For CANON EOS 7D SLR LENS CAP+KEEPER+GGS PROTECTOR+HOOD $8.54

58MM Filter Color Red Blue Purple gray + Lens hood + white Balance f/ Canon DSLR $21.37

58mm Tulip Flower Lens Hood For Canon Nikon Sony DSLR 58mm Lens $4.29

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EW-78E High quality DSLR Lens Protection Hood For CANON EF-S15-85mm F3.5-5.6 IS $4.04

Used Canon EF f/1.4 50mm USM DSLR Lens 50mm + Hood + UV filter $385.00

Canon PowerShot Camera Flower Petal 68mm Lens Hood For DSLR SX30 SX10 IS LH-DC60 $2.95

EW-78E High quality DSLR Lens Protection Hood For CANON EF-S15-85mm F3.5-5.6 IS $4.30

52mm Collapsible 3in1 Rubber Lens Hood for Canon Nikon Pentax DSLR Camera $0.99

67mm Collapsible 3in1 Rubber Lens Hood for Canon Nikon Pentax DSLR Camera $0.99

77mm Collapsible 3in1 Rubber Lens Hood for Canon Nikon Pentax DSLR Camera $0.99

58mm MCUV Filter+Hood+Cap+Pen For NIKON CANON DSLR LENS $8.51

58mm Lens HOOD BLACK + Cap for CANON SX30 IS DSLR NEW $11.99

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5x 52mm Flower Lens Hood For Canon Nikon Olympus Sony Digital SLR Camera Lens $13.99

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72mm Hard Tulip Lens Hood Kit For Canon EOS 40D 50D 60D 1100D Slr Camera (72mm) $15.99

58mm LENS HOOD + MCUV + CAP AND CLOTH for CANON Rebel XT EOS 18-55mm NEW DSLR $17.55

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67mm Flower Lens Hood+Gift For Canon Nikon Olympus Sony Digital SLR Camera Lens $7.99

Additional Photography Equipment for Canon 7D?

Hello, I just started venturing into dSLR world, after owning a point and shoot for quite sometime. Photography has always been a hobby, but now with a newborn baby girl in this world, I figure what better time than now to invest in dSLR. After months and months of research on flashes, camera, lens, etc… I found a great deal on canon 7D.

I guess my question would be I have a canon 7D kit that includes 28-135mm, a memory flash card, and I purchased a 430EX II flash… is there anything else I need to purchase. There seems to be plethora of different gadgets you can purchase to make your picture better such as flash diffuser, uv lens, lens hood, uv filters, different grades of memory cards, etc etc… Kind of at a lost at so many different options you can add on…

As an avid photographer for the last 25 years, here’s my take on it…

Use a UV filter. It won’t add much to your pictures – a cheap, uncoated filter can even deteriorate image quality – but it will protect the lens from abuse. I own a Nikon dSLR with four lenses and only use a UV filter on one of those: the one that constantly gets tiny jam-covered finger prints on it. Your girl isn’t that old yet, you say. Haha, trust me, she’s already deadly. Before my son was mobile he had already destroyed the track pad on a Dell laptop with spit-up. He nearly took out the entire laptop. (I blame my wife for that one.)

Get a lens cleaning kit. At least a proper lens cloth and some cleaning fluid. A more complete kit with a brush is also nice, but a bulb blower is not needed. In time you might want to get a sensor cleaning kit (with a bulb blower) but as long as you’re only using the one lens, there’s not much chance of getting dust on the lens in the first place.

More filters? The only other filters you might want are ND filters and a circular polarizer. ND filters let you use slower than normal shutter speeds. A CP filter will reduce glare and make the sky a deeper shade of blue. These are both specialty items that you’d only use rarely. You don’t need to get them now and you might never need them. Other kinds of filters (colored filters, effect filters) are mostly a waste of money with digital cameras – you can achieve these effects in an image editor.

Image editor. I’m assuming you already have something that works fine.

Use a lens hood. On my standard zoom I keep the lens hood permanently attached. In part because it improves image quality (when a bright light such as say, oooh, the sun, hits the front of the lens it can mute colors or create flare/ reflection). And like a UV filter, a lens hood offers cheap protection against physical abuse to the front element.

Additional flash modifiers… I’d experiment without. Outdoors and at close range I often use the standard diffuser that came with my flash. Indoors I usually bounce the flash instead:
* off the ceiling, usually at 60 degrees with the little white bounce card sticking out to create a catch light (twinkle in the eyes).
* off a wall often creates a pleasant effect.
* pointing backwards over my head for very even illumination.
When I’m feeling creative and have time to set things up, I sometimes use the flash off-camera on a tripod. (I can use the pop-up flash on my Nikon D200 to trigger the SB-900 flash remotely, so this didn’t require any additional investment.) With all of these options, I have not found it necessary to invest in flash brackets, snoots, diffusers, reflectors, etc. You could buy a ton of stuff on a whim, but work with what you have first. (If/ when you run into limitations, you’ll know what to buy next.) You can also improvise various types of modifiers with household items before spending good cash on eg a Gary Fong lightsphere.

Memory cards…. For me, the main advantage of using faster cards is the transfer speed when I upload images to the computer (with a card reader). If your 7D gets sluggish when shooting video clips, upgrade to a faster card. If your card is full after 50 shots, get a bigger one. Otherwise, it’s not much of an issue. Maybe get spares so you can always grab the camera & go. I always keep a spare memory card (empty) and battery (charged) in my camera bag.

Camera bag… not a required item with your limited amount of gear.

A tripod? You’ll know if you need one. I’ve gotten years of good use out of a $100 tripod by SLIK. I only recently decided to invest in a “proper” setup (Markins M10 ballhead + Gitzo legs).

Additional lenses. The 7D is a fantastic camera and it’s only a matter of time before lens lust sets in. With Canon’s range of expensive L-lenses, you really should have taken care of this BEFORE your daughter was born
Some lenses that would go very well with your camera:
* A macro lens to take close-ups of these adorable tiny hands and feet
* A lens with more wide angle coverage for indoor shots, landscapes, etc.
* A portrait lens. Actually, the inexpensive Canon 50mm f/1.8 might suffice.
But for now, the 28-135mm will do fine. As with the flash, what to get next will become obvious with time.
—
Casperskitty,

I was still typing my answer when you posted yours. When I bring just the camera with attached lens I tend to put it in my day pack or just carry it over my shoulder. I’m protective of my lenses’ optics but admittedly not of the cosmetic condition of my gear. When I bring extra lenses and perhaps the flash or tripod, I do use a camera bag. For convenience.

As you may know, I went on a round-the-world trip in 2007-8 and for that trip I converted a Crumpler camera bag into a day pack. That also worked well. But I personally wouldn’t buy a camera bag that could only hold one camera+ lens.

My Super Ikonta C is a different matter – that always travels in its never ready case.

Photo Tip – What is a lens hood, why do we use it?